Friday, April 20, 2012

POWDERED WIGS TO 3-PIECE SUITS

THE ORIGINS OF THE MODERN MEN'S LOOK


18th & Early 19th Century England

By Maggi Andersen

Regency men
It was not in France but Britain that the classic style of clothes worn by men today began to evolve.
During the Georgian period, upper-class Englishmen were busy running their country estates. They needed fabrics which supported their sports, travel and life in the countryside.

18th Century Frenchmen's clothing
 18th Century Frenchmen’s clothing 
Surprisingly, the French, who remained in court and dressed accordingly, came to admire the sensible dress of the English. And in the 1780s, France became obsessed with all things English. This frenzy was known as Anglomania. Sir Walter Scott describes it well: “France, who had so long dictated to all Europe in matters of fashion, seemed now herself disposed to borrow the more simple forms and fashions of her ancient rival.”
Aside from the adoption of English butlers, carriages, dogs and horses, the French began to use wool for jackets instead of the traditional silks and satins. The French Revolution influences this, with the turning away from aristocratic forms of dress.
This resulted in a turning away of bright colors for men. The colors of jackets were limited to brown, grey, dark green, blue and black. Blue was acceptable for any occasion, and black reserved for morning (informal) or for eveningwear.


Regency riding boots
Boots were de rigueur, and by the 1820s trousers became the dominant item of clothing for men instead of breeches and pantaloons. The colors were predominantly tan, white, blue, grey and, occasionally, black. Normally one plain color but sometimes pin-striped. Materials were wool, cashmere, corduroy, cotton, linen, leather and silk.

Waistcoats were the main item used for color and variety. Sometimes two waistcoats were worn simultaneously to show contrasting colors. They were made in a variety of fabrics and often exhibited expensive embroidery. Many wore white or flesh colored waistcoats to give the impression, should the man remove his coat, that he was naked. Influenced by the Grecian Ideal, men were proud of their bodies and sought by fair means or foul (a little padding or corsetry) to display them at their best. 
Shirts were white linen. A great symbol of flair and individuality was the cravat, which required several meters of expensive cotton. Tying it took a considerable amount of time and assistance. These were predominantly white, although some striped fabrics were used, similar to ties worn today. By the Regency era, cleanliness became an important factor and white fabrics demonstrated that the wearer’s clothing was clean. Regular bathing and the use of soap replaced the heavy use of perfume to disguise body odor.
The movement away from powder, perfume wigs, silks, lace, embroidery and stockings segregated the fashions of men and women to become more like our modern day understanding of menswear and masculinity, through the many changes during the Victorian and Edwardian periods. 

Bridegroom's Attire
 
Groom’s attire
1900′s-1920′s (Edwardian Period): A frock coat (a double breasted long coat) was widely worn as part of men’s formalwear during the Edwardian and Victorian periods. By 1910, three-piece suits became more popular than frock coats, but the slim fitted jackets and trousers were still worn.

And up to the present day...

Contemporary Male Attire
 
Maggi Andersen, Author of The Reluctant Marquess

Facebook: Maggi Andersen Author

Resource: NAPOLEON and the Empire of FASHION 1795-1815 Skira.
FASHION IN THE TIME OF JANE AUSTEN Sarah Jane Downing Shire Library.

21 comments:

  1. Thanks for inviting me to your blog, Joan. I could talk all day about English fashion in the Georgian, Regency and Victorian era. And don't get me started on the architecture, interiors, social mores and historical events. A fascinating time in history!

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    2. No, thanks to you, Maggi. It's an honor to have you as a guest blogger. Your post on men's attire is a first for ALL DRESSED UP. Thanks!
      lol

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  2. Very interesting article. Thanks for sharing it. -laura

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  3. Very interesting and informative.

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  4. It was my understanding that brown-topped riding boots were reserved for the Master of the Hunt? When did this rule begin, any idea? Love the article. Thanks for the information.

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    1. Will check out the history of brown-topped riding boots, Judi, though that could spin into the history of riding attire (: Thanks!

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  5. Boots would make a great blog on their own, Judi. Wellington boots, hessian boots for town and country etc.

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  6. Very interesting I enjoyed the read.

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  7. So glad regular bathing eventually became the custom instead of perfume to disguise 'odours'. I found the list of the different materials used over time very interesting and fascinating that Britain led the way for men's fashion in the 18th century too - I will mention this to my husband when he next turns up in something 'not quite suitable' . he'd better not let the side down! Thanks for the interesting and informative piece Maggie and JP :-)

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  8. Bathing was considered injurious to health prior to the late 18th C. Beau Brummel did much to change that notion and men's fashion too. Cleanliness and daily bathing became popular and white cravats and shirts were worn(gentry)to show how clean a person was.

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  9. through your blog, i am starting to gain a real interest and affinity for historical fashion, joan!

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    1. Tricia, you have no idea how happy that makes me. When I started this blog, I wondered who on earth would be interested in the subject, so it's great to know that there are people interested in fashion history. And contributors like Maggi Andersen bring a lot to the table with posts like this one she just wrote. There's not a wealth of information about men's clothing for the Regency era, so her post is a real gem.

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  10. I am certain this corner is a big hit in terms of reliable information about fashion and I believe this is a great issue we must discuss in order to educate them about its importance.

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    1. Thanks, Siryozo. Yes, all the information is thoroughly researched, but we try to keep it fun.

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  11. Great write up. The 19th century was a crazy whirlwind of fashion. In encompasses both my favorite (1880's) and least favorite (1840s) eras in clothing and hair.

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    1. Hi Heather, thanks for visiting! Kudos for this post go to the fabulous Maggi Andersen who's an expert on this period. Hope you'll come by for a visit again.

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  12. Hello, Thank you for posting beautiful images and fascinating entries. I have some questions regarding HAIRSTYLES in the late 1800's. I am working on a theatre project and in my research I have found little on a few different looks I'm trying to achieve.
    Courtroom Judge/wig
    Brothel/Ladies of the Evening
    Differences between the Affluent and the Poor/Women in particular ages 20-50.
    Anything, (images and otherwise) you could share would be most helpful.
    Thank you for your time.
    Best, Mitch

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    1. Hi Mitch, Joanna Waugh has a wealth of information on that period so you might want to see if you can find anything on her website. My internet is slow right now and it's taking forever to come up, but here's the link. Let me know if you need any more info http://www.joannawaugh.com/

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